Shades of Blue in Jodhpur

I have to admit, my first impressions of Jodhpur were not that good. Water stood a foot deep surrounding the train station, tuk-tuks immersed half way up their wheels. We carefully negotiated getting the bags into the back of one, usual tight squeeze and tetras-like logistics. The litter strewn, albeit quiet, scruffy streets on the way to our hotel didn’t improve the impression. But then we had just got off a crowded, clanking overnight train and it was only 6.15am and I don’t really do early, so I probably wasn’t in the best frame of mind…..

My mood, and impressions started to improve as we sat in the shaded cool of the Toorji Stepwell (built by a Gujarati queen and modelled on the one at Patan). An older man swam gently through the shadowed water, having removed the litter first, before being dive bombed by younger men. Two affected tourists posed for selfies on the tiered ledges in what they probably thought were interesting, stylish poses – but they just looked ridiculous. Especially when a professional photo shoot, models dressed in elegant, deep red richly brocaded gowns showed them how it should be done. A white robed priest lit the first of his candles set amidst golden flower heads and the smell of incense drifted across the water as the cafe finally opened and I could get my much needed morning cup of tea.

The balcony of our restored haveli hotel gave us a fabulous vantage point over the Hanuman Jayanti parade later in the morning. A riot of colour weaving its noisy way through the winding alleys of the old town. First came the men on motorbikes. Two or three abreast, all dressed in white, an orange scarf draped across their shoulders. We thought they were noisy, but the roar of tens of motorbikes was nothing compared to the deep thump from the giant loudspeakers mounted on trucks, belting out music at top volume, the sound reverberating off the walls. I’m sure the room shook with the sound.

Behind, came the women. Dressed in vibrant orange saris they filled the narrow alley in a dancing sea of exuberant saffron and tangerine. Orange has sacred meaning so is appropriate for celebrating the birth of Lord Hanuman, and seeking protection and blessing from the great monkey god.

But Jodhpur is famous for being the ‘Blue City’ not orange.

The blue washed buildings of the old town spread out from the foot of the steep cliff on which the massive Mehrangarh Fort sits, dominating the skyline above the town. But its within the maze of narrow alleyways where the blue is really striking, set against the dull, dusty streets. Blue, the shade of a morning sky before the sun is really hot, seems to be the traditional colour. But modern paint pigments are richer, so other shades now sit harmoniously alongside. Wandering the maze of streets and alleys on the hills of the old town was wonderfully atmospheric, the late afternoon sun lighting walls while leaving others in deep shadow. Children shouted ‘Hello’ from doorways whilst others played cricket in the narrow street. Cows sat at the end of muddy alleyways and dogs slept on the seats of motorbikes.

Traditionally the blue pigment was produced by mixing natural indigo with lime plaster. The colour helped keep houses cooler (very necessary in 40 plus degree heat) in addition to repelling pests and being the devine colour of Lord Shiva. The extent of blue has reduced over the years with new building methods, but it is still a very special sight.

Above the town the huge rose red sandstone walls of Mehrangarh Fort rise out of the rock. It’s very impressive. One of the largest forts in Rajasthan at over 500 metres long it contains numerous elaborate palaces with intricate fretwork screens and beautiful painted ceilings, one adorned with giant Christmas baubles. Along with some very uncomfortable looking palanquins and a cannon in the shape of a crocodile. And a fabulous view of the blue city.

Simon had visited Jodhpur over 20 years ago and wasn’t hugely keen on returning. I was being indulged. But he’s pleased I persuaded him and enjoyed it far more this time, obviously as I’m here….