Scenic in Skardu
The mountains rose above us on either side of the plane. We were flying between the snow capped mountains. Not above them. The plane banked sharply left so we were looking straight down to the ground as it circled in the very tight space between the mountains. The flight from Islamabad to Skardu was less than an hour and probably the most spectacular we’ve ever taken. Absolutely stunning.
Skardu in Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan is home to and the base for many K2 summiteers and was a welcome relief from the hot and noisy big cities of the south. For the first time since leaving England we actually felt cool, even cold at night. Not a tiny town by any means but very local at this time of year, the influx of tourists not due for a few months. It was very refreshing.
Unfortunately my stomach was none too good so I spent the afternoon at our hotel being dosed with herbal green tea by the lovely staff while Simon walked to the small 400 year old Kharpocho Fort overlooking the town. Not much left of the fort but incredible views over the town nestled in the valley below a 360 degree backdrop of high, the white topped mountains of the Karakoram range. At least until the dust storm prevented him from seeing anything.
Skardu is surrounded by beautiful scenery. None more so than the emptiness of the huge Sarfranga Cold Desert. The highest cold desert in the world at 2226m it can drop to -17 degrees in winter and is often covered in snow. A sandy desert backed by snowy mountains is not what you’d expect. Neither was the speed of the jeep ride out into the dunes! A high adrenaline, high speed jolting, up and down near vertical dunes clinging on in the back seat for lack of any seatbelt – the Pakistani version of health and safety being flying the flag on the bonnet – my stomach doing threatening somersaults. Thankfully the bouncing around didn’t last too long and we could then take in the wonder of seeing undulating pale golden sand in such an unusual setting in a more calm manner.
The nearby village of Shigar is one of the oldest in the area with a fort dating back to the 17th century. Found amidst tiny, dusty winding streets barely wide enough for a car it is a glorious wood and lime washed structure set behind impressive heavy wooden gates. The walnut wood doors and interior pillars are heavily carved with symbols from multiple religions; lotus flowers for Buddhism, chakra for Hinduism and a star for Islam. Over 800 years old and still beautifully preserved due to the natural oil in the wood. The surrounding gardens are beautifully tranquil with a small pavilion set on an island with water gently flowing around and a huge 400 year old type of maple tree which, according to local legend, naturally combusts from the inside when it reaches 300 years old – not very sensible for its survival you wouldn’t think. Luckily for the tree, locals watch for the first sight of flames and put them out so although the inside is black and charred, it’s still very much alive. And we could have actually stayed in the fort – I just got a look when I suggested it……
Amburiq mosque is even more hidden away in a small village just south of Shigar. Although the star shaped wooden roof was visible above the houses, getting to it was a bit tricky down dusty tracks where mountain streams ran alongside, ducks and cows roamed freely and tractors were the vehicle of choice. A tiny building 630 years old with more intricate carving on the wooden windows, pillars and doors a very atmospheric place still used for worshipping. Much nicer, in my opinion, than the newer, larger, marble and bling mosques.
Blind Lake, so called as it has neither inlet or outlet, has a wonderful setting on a grassy plain surrounded by the sheer grey sides of the snow capped mountains. Goats and cows wandered near the blue waters of the lake and occasional trees provided shade from the midday sun. But all this serene tranquility was somewhat spoiled by the garish pink and yellow swan pedalos. The local tourists loved them though.
The western end of the Katpana Cold Desert and the nearby lake were more peaceful affairs. The sublime Himalayan mountains rising around them, one a blue and green lush valley and metres away a stretch of barren, pale sand dunes. Both are equally stunning. Such diverse landscapes in such a small area.
Skardu polo ground is a long, relatively narrow dusty area with steep concrete steps/benches, a giant, white plastic horse and an ‘I love Skardu’ sign, these now seemingly ubiquitous around the world. Not a hugely appealing place, though the setting with the snowy mountains behind is lovely. Half a dozen players mounted on sleek brown horses, their teeth bared, charged up and down, dust flying in all directions, the small hard white ball smacking into the concrete, inches below where people sat, with a resounding clatter. We were hoping to see a polo match while in the north of Pakistan and we thought we’d struck lucky with a derby match between Skardu and Shigar. Sadly the match had been postponed due to the death of one of the players. The practice was entertaining though.
Only a couple of days in Skardu, before heading further north to the Hunza Valley for a week or so. We were doing it the wrong way round, according to Javed, our friendly guesthouse owner, we should be spending longer in Skardu. Let’s hope he’s wrong on that count.
Helen (26th April 2025)
Well written Helen, what a change In temperature for you. The flight sounds breathtaking. XX
Lovely pictures of the mountain backdrop with the desert in shot. Sounds a bit of a frill seeker experience, flying on Red Bull airways and then Red Bull desert cruising.
I bet the cooler climate is welcome…..
The jeep wasn’t the most gentle of experiences but I did love the flight. And cooler is definitely good.
Looks stunning!!
It was, particularly the flight. Never seen anything so spectacular.