On the Karakoram Highway
Though our journey from Skardu to Gilgit was not technically part of the Karakoram Highway, to my mind it seemed like the quintessential image of the road I’d been dreaming about had been brought to life. We were slumming it in a Suzuki mini van, squashed in with 20 others jostling for some bum space and suffering in the heat. Our bags had the better deal of it, strapped to the roof, enjoying the air and the ever increasing magnificence of the scenery. The road was tarmaced but was often covered in a build up of flattened dirt and stones, the detritus of the landslides that occur with alarming frequency here. At times we were really offroading, waddling from side to side, slowly catching up with the colourful, jingling trucks ponderously lumbering their way ahead of us.
Better on top
As we progressed the scenery became more and more impressive. Towering snow-capped peaks, deep ravines, azure blue rivers, sometimes rushing fiercely, mainly meandering gently. This is the second highest mountain range in the world, the mighty Karakoram, at the point where it meets the Hindu Kush, the land I’ve read so much about as a backdrop to the Great Game. 19th century exploits and machinations of moustachioed English majors and their Russian counterparts, the one fending off advances against India, the other plotting a colonial take-over. Arduous and dangerous journeys, mountain pass perils, intrigue, daring-do, boys-own adventure stuff writ large.
Five hours to Gilgit, watching the woman next to Helen try to not be sick, being sat on by a local bloke who must have had itching powder in his pants, watching the woman next to Helen fail in her quest to retain her stomach contents. At least she stuck her head out of the window. We had to manoeuvre past the results, still dripping down the door when we got off. Reality most definitely over-riding the romantic on this occasion.
From Gilgit we changed plans and hastily booked a guesthouse in Karimabad, another 2 hours up the road and into the Hunza valley, this time on the KKH proper. Alas (for me at least) the KKH proper is a pretty standard road, fully metalled due to several joint Pakistan / Chinese initiatives and rather disappointingly smooth. Another van and lots of waiting around so 2 hours turned into 3, but the views just kept getting better and better. Peaks of almost 8,000 metres, perpetually snow-bound giants bearing down on us in our insignificant little crappy van. No-one else seemed awestruck – I suppose even the best scenery the world has to offer becomes mundane when you see it day in, day out.
Karakoram Highway bus window shot
A long day of travelling indeed. To cap it off, our guesthouse was further than we thought and needed a blindingly steep uphill yomp with the packs on. To say we were knackered is an understatement…
We had trepidations about Karimabad. It’s essentially the most touristy place in the Hunza valley, and judging by the amount of souvenir shops and cafes, it looks like it could be unpleasantly overrun in peak season. Luckily for us April is very early, so we were almost the only tourists in town. Wonderful bright blue skies here and a wide mountain panorama. We’ve been to some amazing mountainous regions before, and this one is right up there with the best.
The main attraction is Baltit Fort (Baltit being the old name for Karimabad), an 800 year old stronghold of the Mir of Hunza, the local king whose rule only disappeared in 1974 when the kingdom of Hunza was swallowed into the wider state of Gilgit-Baltistan. There’s a splendidly bearded greeter at the fort who sports a traditional white pakol hat with a small peacock feather attached to the front. He loves showing off & having his picture taken (really just to show off his mutton chops we thought) and is probably the nicest guy you’ll ever meet. The fort itself is equally splendid – a compact series of small wooden rooms designed to confuse enemies and tourists alike (Helen got lost).
Baltit fort
Baltit fort
The peacock’s still nesting in there somewhere
There’s another one a few kilometers out of town, Altit fort, further down the road. As at Baltit, we took the obligatory but very entertaining tour, and saw the place where local miscreants had their hands tied behind their backs and thrown over the thousand foot drop to certain doom. It’s strange how you reflect on things like that. You think, passively, “how awful” for a split second, then, “bloody hell, what an amazing view….”
Altit fort defence tower
View from Altit fort
After unsuccessfully trying to cadge a ride back to Karimabad in the back of a local’s van (we had to pay), we caught a rubbishy smoke-filled taxi up to a beauty spot above the town called Eagle’s Nest to watch the setting sun illuminate the mountains. We weren’t the first there – several Pakistani tourists had bagged the best spots but we found a decent place and settled in for a tranquil watch. As with all things here, tranquility is a relative concept. It was indeed tranquil if your idea of tranquility involves shouting at your friends to stand on that rock over there so we can take a picture of you pretending to squash the mountain behind you with your index finger…
Eagle’s Nest viewpoint above Karimaabad
A lovely little tour around Ganish Village, a spot a few hundred meters below Karimabad where we again took the obligatory guide (a measure brought into to stop those with a nosy disposition wandering around and poking about in peoples houses – we understood this to be aimed at richer Pakistanis from the south of the country who have a bad reputation for this sort of behaviour here). Our guide was animated and passionate about the village, showing us centuries old mosques that had been sympathetically restored, bizarrely thanks to a grant from British Airways. Our efforts to cadge a ride back up to town were more successful here thanks to a 75 year Malaysian bloke with a driver who also gave us tons of advice about where to go.
We seem to be getting more brazen about things like this as time goes on – though always with a hefty dose of British politeness of course!
The fabulously enthusiastic guide to Ganish village
Ganish village
Ganish mosques (courtesy of BA)
Simon (28th April 2025)
A bit of a sickly journey for you both, but fun ,& wofth it I’m sure. X X
It was. Pakistan is great fun to travel around, especially here in the north
Beautiful, glorious spot for a sunset!!
The photo looks lovely doesn’t it. Better without the accompanying sound for sure!!
Echo Alison’s comments from a few posts ago, that even if I don’t comment regularly, I’m enjoying reading about all your adventures. Loving the beautiful mountainous scenery especially xx
Thanks Katrina – glad you’re enjoying it. Will be more mountain scenery shortly too….