Crossing the Hunza Suspension Bridges
The suspension bridges over the Hunza river are a big attraction in the area, and the only means of crossing to the tiny villages on the east of the river. Although the bridges walk did sound appealing, and was something Simon particularly wanted to do, I must admit it was with some amount of trepidation that I set off. The danger of reading too many reports from other travellers.
We left our hostel in Ghulkin and walked along the quiet Karakoram highway to the Hussaini bridge a mile up the road. This is the new bridge built in the 1960’s and the most popular for crossing, so much so that a zip line has also been introduced – how to ruin a peaceful and photogenic place.
First view of the Hussaini bridge
From a distance the bridge didn’t look anything untoward and I wondered why the groups of Pakistani toursists were edging across so slowly. We walked down the dusty track past many, unexpected souvenir shops and a few cafes – unfortunately they didn’t have any of the local speciality apricot cake – to arrive at the bridge. Simon went first, I was tasked with taking photos of him in the middle and then following on. No problem.
Until I stepped on the bridge. It swayed. A lot. Every movement of the many people on it moving it more and more. The mishappen wooden planks unevenly placed with many only a few inches wide. The gaps between them three or four times wider than the actual planks. Far below the Hunza river flowed, fast. The bridge was too wide to hold onto the metal cables on each side. Simon encouraged me forward saying it was fine and to move to the opposite side away from other people but I was rooted to the spot, clinging to the side completely paralyzed, unable to take another step.
Helped across to the opposite side and now clinging on to the cables above my head, these being more stable, relatively speaking, I edged across one plank at a time, gripping the cables tightly with both hands and stopping everytime someone came the other way as the bridge swayed precariously. Luckily the river wasn’t in full flow and it was easier – still terrifying, but easier – once the disorientation of the moving water was replaced with an unmoving rocky riverbed.
Camera now back with Simon – the logistics of getting that from around my neck without the need to remove my hands from the cables was tricky – I was instructed to look like I was enjoying myself. The photos tell a completely different story to how I was actually feeling – petrified.
Trying to look composed
The bridge is about 200 metres across but it felt like miles. I staggered off, legs shaking as I made my way up the steep, uneven rocky steps at the end, my hands brown with the rusty dust from the cables and reluctant to unclench. Made it. Now I could breathe.
Hanging on
The walk took us along a narrow path clinging to the edge of the dark, slate-like stone peak towering above us, a steep drop down to the dry riverbed on the other side. It was very hot in the sun and we were glad to get into the shade of the trees that surrounded the small, currently empty village of Zarabad (we believe this is only used in summer). I had no energy, it all being used up getting across the bridge, and very much needed our cobbled together packed lunch of leftover rotis and dried cherries. The path became somewhat vague once we left the side of the village water channels and reached the rocky, glacier eroded slopes leading to the Passu suspension bridge.
High above the riverbed
I was happy we were nearing the end of the walk – assuming we could hitch a ride back along the KKH – but that was tinged with the thought of having to tackle the second bridge. The original suspension bridge crossing, much older and less well maintained than Hussaini. And according to what I’d read (that danger again) a lot more scary.
Looking down from the top, I thought it didn’t look too bad there being only two fairly narrow stretches of water and the bridge wasn’t as long, only about 100 metres. Only! The dusty track down was very narrow and very steep and once down I discovered there was a very wide stretch of water right at the start. Oh joy!
Passu bridge
Simon had gone ahead, more photos required. This bridge was even more basic. Attached to the rock faces by a jumbled assortment of cables, bolts and bits of wood, it had very narrow planks, a few tree branches, broken planks and all much further apart, a stretch from one to the next. Some planks were missing altogether with just a huge gaping hole with the water swirling below. Cables are woven around the planks randomly, bolts and ties along the cable handrails – meaning I couldn’t just slide along – and the cable was very rusty and wobbly. This felt very Indiana Jones. Simon loved it. I hated it.
Passu bridge
Passu bridge
Once off, I thought the Passu bridge had been easier despite it being more rickety, as I could hold (grip) the rails at both sides but even so I was mightly relieved to get to the other side. It was then I noticed bits of broken plank lying on the rocky riverbed far below…..
Heights are not my thing. Unstable footing – don’t like that either. But I still did it! I was very proud of myself and I did get a very big hug from Simon when I’d crossed.
And we did manage to hitch a lift back.
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I also set off on this walk with some trepidation as I was unsure how Helen would react to the bridge crossings. I’d also read several articles where trekkers had taken one look at the Passu bridge and turned back in horror. Having to retrace your steps and trek all the way back up an exposed slope to get back to the Hussaini bridge must have been soul destroying, and I was determined this wouldn’t happen to us.
My heart sank when Helen really struggled with the Hussaini – it was as described, but others were merrily bouncing along as if it were impossible to fall through the gaps. This was sheer stupidity on their part though – believe me it was definately possible to fall through or at least cause yourself a very nasty injury…..Nevertheless, a careful placing of the feet, a steady pace and you’re fine. Helen’s white knuckles, having made it over, told a different story…..
Don’t fancy carrying that across the bridge
I tried to enjoy the rest of the walk, but the constant uphill through the deserted village was tough in the heat and we both suffered a little, though our imprompu picnic of sumptuous dried cherries and bread was a morale boost for sure. But we still had the worst bridge to come.
I was also getting concerned with route finding. We had no paper maps, just the trail indicators on Maps.me, however this proved to be accurate enough to navigate to the high point of the trail. From there we had to make a few assumptions about where the Passu bridge might be and headed off down to the river. As we approached my main concern was locating a path back up the steep slope on the other side of the river – from a distance it looked like there’d been a landslide and I had a vision of us scrambling up steep and dangerous looking sandy slopes and hoping to find the path where it was still intact.
Passu cones – a rewarding view
The Passu bridge was a sight to behold. A rickety looking jumble of bits of wood and rusty cables. The whole thing lolled to the left as you looked down it. Bits of wood were clearly visible where the river bed was exposed. The gaps between the crappy bits of wood were large, in some places up to a metre and on occasion I had to haul myself over on the cables (the perils of having short legs). Some planks had to be bypassed altogether. Some planks were only attached in one place and sank several inches when you stood on them. Crossing the fast flowing parts of the river was very disorienting.
It was fabulous and I loved every adrenaline filled minute of it…..
My fears about the landslide proved misplaced – a hidden path allowed us up the other side withough too much trouble. My fears about Helen’s reaction were not misplaced, but I must admit I was extremely proud of the way she braved it out. She seriously deserved her hug.
Helen & Simon (30th April 2025)
Well done Helen!!
Thanks Claire, I was very glad to finish I can tell you!
Very Indiana Jones and the temple of doom!! 🤠Puts my recent treetop bridges at go ape to shame. We’ll done Helen for braving it out, you should be proud of yourself and I hope Simon rewards you with a bit of luxury for putting up with his crazy ideas 🤪
Still waiting for what I’d call luxury, but think it could be a while coming……
What a challenge for you Helen, I am sweating & hyperventilating just reading about it. I think I would have just sat down not daring to go on. Very well done. I would have needed more than a hug. Where does my son get these ideas from, certainly not from me.
Thanks Carole. I’m hoping he’s got the mad ideas over with now, but doubt it very much…..
Wow! Very brave Helen, well done. At first I thought I could do that, then I read on and looked at the photos!! Eek! I wouldn’t have wanted to let go to take any photos for sure. Xx
Very scary. But the stubbornness in me wouldn’t let me give up. Glad I did it, but I’ll think twice before agreeing to anything else that gets suggested!
Hi there! I’m late to the party but I’ve really enjoyed reading your posts and catching up with where you are. Enjoying the humour and the writing is really, really good. So pleased you’ve made into Pakistan to see the beautiful mountains and to enjoy the peaceful way of of living up there. Huge respect for getting across those bridges – it’s a long way down to the river below. Keep enjoying yourselves out there – you’ve only just begun. Cheers Nick
Hi Nick – great to hear from you. You were totally right about Pakistan. It’s quite fabulous here. Friendliest people on the planet with some of the best scenery anywhere. Colour, character, the random and unexpected. It’s a travel paradise if you don’t mind roughing it a bit. Of course you know all this. We’ll be sorry to leave and wish we’d come here before (though on this trip we get to spend a whole month here, not just a couple of weeks!). Glad you’re enjoying our updates. I bet they’re bringing back a few memories for you…..
Hi Guys, how are you? Your jouney so far is amazing love l reading the blogs. Hunza Valley and Skardu I would love to visit one day. Hats off to you Helen for crossing that bridge. xx
Hi Sham. Lovely to hear from you. We’re fine. All the recent nonsense with India has quietened down now (not that we were in any danger to be honest, but people back home only see the problem headlines of course). You have to come here – really – it’s just the best!!
I’m glad you guys are experiencing the beautiful side of Pakistan. Def of my list when i visit.