For our last day on Jeju, we decided to catch a ferry to the small but renowned Udo island. It was here that we discovered where everyone else was. Whilst our walks on the Olle trails had not been isolated by any means, in relative terms they were pretty quiet. Here however, the entire population of Korea and half of China were busy, like us, trying to work out how to buy tickets for the boat and suss out timings. The ferry was, as you’d expect, crammed full of tourists (surely past the point of safety it seemed, but unlikely in Korea) and on arrival at Udo, all spewed out into the many rental outlets to hire their vehicles for the day. It’s a thing here to tour the island in a tiny electric car. With ears. Luckily for us, you need a Korean driving licence to enjoy that particular pleasure, so we hot-footed it out onto the road instead. This proved to be a mistake. The small lanes around the island were soon overrun with pink and blue cutesy trikes and buzzing little mini-things. Most drivers and passengers were wearing safety helmets. Some had dogs. They were wearing safety helmets too. We made it to a beach side cafe and consoled ourselves with peanut and tangerine ice-creams, but ultimately decided we’d had enough already. I suspect the increasing fatigue of the previous day’s efforts were influential here and perhaps under normal circumstances we’d have simply laughed it off. Just occasionally you forget that you’re seeing things as they are and should revel in that, rather than expect the conditions that suit you (in this case a desire for quiet, peace, and a leisurely stroll on the beach). It was a quintessentially Korean experience no doubt, but we (really me) were guilty of berating the disneyfication of a naturally beautiful place because it wasn’t to our taste. Lesson learned.